Kyrgyzstan, our first country in central asia. We had chosen Kyrgyzstan after having looked into
Mongolia and decided that the options available there were too touristy and the drives too long.
This would've meant that we didn't get to see as much in the time we had available.
As an ex USSR country Kyrgyzstan still has surprisingly strong links with Russia and their influence
can be seen throughout the country. From the ridiculous oversized miltary hats to the use of concrete
in constructions and their love of statues. The languages in the country are Russian and Kyrgyz.
Throughout our trip we kept on bumping into people doing the Mongol Rally and this led us to want to
do it more than ever. We were the only ones out of our group that knew what they were doing and we
had great chats with some of the competitors. Seeing cars from old vans to Nissan Micras and Daewoo's
made us laugh at what compliance with the rules means.
We didn't really know what to expect when coming to Kyrgyzstan but had high hopes that it would be
an amazing, it didn't fail to deliver.
Our first port of call in Kyrgyzstan was the capital of Bishkek. From leaving the airport it is
immediately apparent how under developed it is here. The road from the airport is heavily worn
(later we would find out that this is one of the best roads in the country) and on the 40 minute
drive from the airport we overtook farmers, donkeys and horses and karts. The traffic here is
made up mainly from russian jeeps and trucks and older european cars from the late 80's and early 90's.
Of course as with anywhere there are a few elite driving mercedes. As with most developing countries
it is hard to miss the Chinese development projects going on in exchange for local resources.
By the time we landed in Bishkek it was 7am and we hadn't slept in 19 hours. Of course you can't go to
sleep upon arriving as this would lead to severe jet lag. Instead we went out and did a mini city tour.
This entailed seeing the many monuments and museums doting the city. We were surprised just how quiet
Bishkek was for a city you can walk between all the major areas and despite no real traffic laws it
is not difficult to get around. It might actually just be the most quaint capital city or even city
that I have ever been in. This immediately made me like it as it had a very homely feel especially with
the soviet era apartment blocks which were built into recesses and all had their own communal areas.
We also visited markets here and were surprised by the number of nuts and raisins on sale and both the
variety and size of the produce on offer. Huge watermelons and honey dew melons and tiny tomatoes and
cucumbers. The bread here is also of an interesting affair coming in circle loafs. When fresh this is
very tasty but it is often served up to a week old and with no preservatives this means it can be quite
tough.
After just two days in the capital we left it as we began our circuit of the rest of the country. Our
journey begins.
On the road to Chychkan Gorge we found out that all our toilet stops for the next 12 days would
be bush stops ....... this was an interesting concept in a country desperately lacking in foliage.
We were stopped 3 times for detailed inspection of our drivers documents by the local police who
seemed mythed that tourists actually travelled in this direction. Thankfully they let us pass and
continue with our journey. On the drive we travelled through two passes and had a beautiful if
hair raising experience of picnic on the banks of a river. At the top of the first pass when we
stopped we soon became aware that we were with a group of local Kyrgyzstan young adults who had
all been studying abroad but had come back to Kyrgyzstan in order to travel around the country
and make a video to encourage tourism in their country. Unwittingly we had also just become part
of this national tourism video and were filmed talking about why we had come to the country and
got some group photos with them. It was a great experience for all as it was both the first time
for them and for us to experience this part of their country.
Unfortunately the weather wasn't great on this day being a little overcast and this made some of
the passes cool. Nonetheless this didn't take away from the magnificent views. On the journey we
also stopped by the side of the road in order to try the local speciality at this time of the
year. Fermented mare's milk. Slightly alcoholic and pretty foul tasting it is also stated as
having the special ability to clear your bowls so we only sipped it.
When we arrived at the gorge we were pleasantly surprised to be given a room with a balcony
overlooking the river and with awesome views. During our time here we did our first trek at
an altitude of 2000 metres. About 15 times the height we usually reside. Thankfully our fitness
meant we didn't struggle too much with this. On the walk we saw lots of locals selling fresh
raspberries which they use to make very sweet jam and some local communities. That night we
started of a nightly tradition in which a bottle of vodka should be drunk. It was an expensive
brand but I specifically hated this variant for having a really dirty after burn.
We just spent the one night here before we made an early start towards the village of Sary Chelek.
Thankfully on the drive to Sary Chelek the weather had improved greatly. Unfortunately this meant
that we had noticed that our vans couldn't use AC because of the windy and hilly roads and being
at altitude otherwise they would overheat. This would have been ok if not for the lack of any
windows in the rear of the vans. As a result our first sweat shower ensued. The scenery on the
drive was quite simply stunning. Gorgeous mountain ranges, rolling hills and multiple lakes paved
the way for us around snakey passes. This combined with local interaction led to this being a great
day and everyone seemed to be on uplifted spirits even if you did arrive at our homestay for 3
hours late, a theme repeated throughout our journey. We also passed a lorry on one pass which had
taken the bend a little too fast and was hanging over the edge. This brought home just how dangerous
the roads were in this country.
On our final approach to Sary Chelek we came across lots of locals using inner tubes from trucks etc
to ride the rapids down the river. They seemed to be having a huge amount of fun despite the clear
danger.
Upon arriving at our homestay for the night we were informed that there was one toilet, one sink and
one shower (at best) between the 12 of us. This led us to some worry between some of the group, however
it actually panned out quite well somehow. The homestay itself was idyllically located in nice gardens,
next to a river and surrounded by a mountain range.
During our time in Sary Chelek we went up to the lakes and went out on one lake on a tiny speed boat
with questionable safety and the mayday instructions in a language the driver couldn't understand.
We also interacted with several groups of locals on holiday here and found lots of newly weds. This
was a fantastic experience and really made the day. We were all taking photos with each other and
lots of laughter was shared. They also offered us loads of their food, just going to show the hospitality
of the people in this region. After are delayed start we headed up on a trek around several of the lakes
in the area led by our homestay dad. Most of the group were held back but we managed to get right up front
and as is always the cases being at the front is the best. Means you get the longest rests, best views and
can engage with the local guide. We stopped for lunch at a shaded spot around the banks of one lake and
afterwards I braved the freezing cold glacier melt water for a swim. This was so refreshing.
During our time up in the range we found lots of trucks collecting straw. The trucks were so overloaded
that the drivers could hardly see at best. This was both funny and scary. We also saw how they got the straw
down from the pass using horses. When we got back to the homestay that night we showered in the river in
order to freshen up this was another cold, but refreshing experience.
The next morning we made an earlier start on route to Arslanbob.
On route to Arslanbob we stopped at a local market and saw lots of fabrics, produce and livestock
being traded. We also saw local children taking animals home. At lunch we stopped to see the process
of bread and dumpling making.
Upon arriving in Arslanbob we were staying in another homestay. During our time here we trekked up a
very steep pass and saw lots of locals scything straw in a beautiful setting. This combined with
families and tiny kids riding donkeys. They start them on donkeys and then upgrade them to horses at
a later state as the donkeys are more docile and therefore easier to learn on. The route down was
however a very dusty affair being constantly passed by oversized straw trucks on sand roads.
During our time here we also visited a waterfall frequently visited by locals. We were often stopped
and talked to by the locals as tourists rarely visit this part of the country. The waterfall was
quite nice but we couldn't swim at the bottom due to islam. Some locals did however go in fully
clothed. This visit led to a very nice end to the day.
The native people in Arslanbob are mainly Uzbeks due to its close proximity to the border with Uzbekistan.
As such they follow islam more strictly than the Kyrgyz populace. This led to a different take on the local
culture and we tried several things in the market here such as very strong cheese. We really love engaging
with local people and the Uzbeks loved to talk to us and every vehicle that passed us people where waving
and saying hello. It was a fantastic welcoming feeling.
Next we had to cross the country from the west to the east. This meant two very long days driving
across the entire country. We had no idea what to really expect from this journey. Needless to say
Kyrgyzstan pleasantly surprised us again with spectacular pass after pass and never ending valleys.
The roads were none existent in this part of the country and at best we had a gravel path. The drive
also gave us our first glimpse of the local yurts that we were going to be staying in along with
meeting the first of the nomads we would encounter.
We broke up are two day journey with a stop in Kazarman. There really isn't much to see here and the
place was a bit strange which I guess was down to the fact that it was inaccessible for 6 months of
the year due to being in a valley cut off by deep snow and ice on the passes surrounding it.
After two days on the road our arrival in Son Kul was met with rain and an overcast sky. We were
also surprised by the number of other tourists also staying with us. Having come from areas of the
country not visited by any tourists this had come as a shock and left a slightly sour taste in our
mouths. Thankfully as morning came they had all left the area and it was tranquil. During our time
in Son Kul we stayed in yurts split male and female there were about 5 of us to each yurt. Given
the altitude we were at now (3000m) they had to be heated at night using a stove. The fire hazard
posed by these was great as was the lack of oxygen caused by the stove stealing what little there
had been to start with combined with leaking some smoke back into the yurt. Still it was better than
being cold, I guess.
We had a full day here and headed out on a hike up a ridge. Our first trek at over 3000 metres. At
the top we saw lots of hieroglyphics carved into the ridge rocks and had great panoramic views of
the valley and lake below. We also met some nomads on the ridge. In the afternoon we came back
and went for our own walk down to the lake edge for a wash in the cool waters as there are no washing
facilities here.
As sun set we watched the stars at night. Hands down this is the most beautiful night sky I have
ever seen. The high altitude (less atmosphere) and the lack of major pollutants in this area either
light or otherwise lead to great visibility. The sky was so intense that we could actually make out
the band of the milky way from the rest of the sky along with satellites a shooting star every few
minutes and literally thousands of stars. Jaw dropping doesn't even come close. Even in the cold
outside we watched them for hours.
During our time at the lake our hosts put on some traditional nomad games. Luckily for us one of
the national players had turned up. This was not a scripted event and the locals were taking part
for fun and not just for tourists.
The games included tug of war in the traditional sense and two guys being tied together and having
to crawl away from each other. We got involved in both of these and were defeated in both instances
despite outnumbering the locals. Next the horses got involved. The first game was quite tame and
the task was simply to pick up a matchbox from the floor while riding past it on the horse. This
meant the riders leaning right over and almost off the horse. This was followed by horseback wrestling
where the purpose seemed to be to make the other rider dismount. The next event was for a male to
chase a female and if he doesn't catch her she gets to hit him around the face with a stick. Needless
to say this became very fast paced and competitive. The final event was the most intense. Goat polo
I guess. A decapitated goat is picked up and the rider has to attempt to drop it in a rubber tyre.
While his team support him and the opponents team have to stop him and obtain the goat and score
themselves. This got very messy and almost led to the goat being ripped in half between two riders.
The games were a great experience all in though.
Our next stop was Tash Rabat. On route we saw Camels and Yaks and snow capped peaks. We also visited
the Tash Rabat fort. During our time here we did a massive near vertical trek up a high ridge this
included scaling loss shale rock but the views were very worth it. In our opinion this was the most
difficult and rewarding trek of the trip.
We were only 35km from the border with China here in the east and the valley we were staying in led
there. During the afternoon here we headed a little bit up towards China and found a beautiful spot
on the banks of the river and had a good wash and contemplated life. This spot was truly beautiful
and yet again we had proved that by doing our own thing we had made the better decision than the walk
that the group went on in the afternoon. Sometimes our ability to hunt out the best thing to do
somewhere and make it a unique experience is simply awe-inspiring.
Our next stop was the Wild Camp. The scenery on the way here was different to what we had
seen before. On route we saw rough rivers and even two rivers of different colours merging.
They mixed here though unlike in Brazil. Our van broke down from overheating due to a leaky
radiator hose. No surprise given the bone crunching roads.
During our time at the wild camp I witnessed my first moon set behind a mountain ridge and
realised I had never really thought about the fact that the moon sets in the sky. There were
no facilities here at all and the toilet was a squat in a flat field with short grass.
The next day we headed on the worst road in Kyrgyzstan. We averaged around 15km/h. The road was
so bad in one part we left it and drove through a field and this actually meant we could drive
a bit faster. The bland open scenery made the drive even more difficult along with the heat.
Thankfully eventually the road returned to tarmac, the first tarmacked road in over 300km. That night
we arrived in camp and grabbed a few litres of beer and enjoyed watching the sunset over Issyk Kul
lake. We had our first proper shower in over six days and polished off the vodka supplies.
The next morning before we returned to Bishek we watched an eagle hunting display. As part of this
our van got stuck and had to be pushed out along with the help of a golf to tow it. Later we realised
that both the eagle and its live lunch had been in the golf during this event. The eagles beak was
truly threating when we held it. They are a magnificent creature. The hunters actually help them to
breed and release the adults back into the wild. This meant that they have to be feed live pray.
In this instance this meant that we saw the eagle eat a live bunny rabbit to a few peoples disgust.
The eagle hunters and the eagles have an equal relationship. Any pray caught by the eagle is split
50/50 between the hunter and the eagle.
After this we stopped briefly at the Burana tower where we saw lots of wedding people. Apparently
in Soviet culture newly weds travel around on their wedding day taking photographs at local places
of importance. At our final dinner that night in Bishkek we saw a traditional Kyrgyz band play. This
was very intriguing how they managed to play a piece of reed just with their mouths and strum a guitar
so fast. We ended up buying one of their CD's to support them as they truly were great. You can see a
video I made of them below.
For a video of a national band playing traditional Kyrgyzstan music, see below:
The trip had been amazing, long drop toilets, welcoming locals, homestays, yurts, a distinct lack of infrastructure and
fantastic pass after fantastic pass. Kyrgyzstan had opened its heart to me and in return had won a place in mine.
The diversity of this country was phenomenal, along with the culture this had led it straight into my top five countries I
have been too. Despite the food being not great and laden with soups and salads which every seasoned traveller knows to
avoid in order to not get sick. Kyrgyzstan you surprised a veteran traveller something not easily done and I thank you for
it.
From here we left on route to Istanbul, Turkey where we had a few days to explore due to have to transfer through there.
