Norway would be the second most northern point we'd been in the world, only being beaten by Iceland six years early. Other than a short weekend in
Rome in 2014 we'd not been to any European country since 2010. This would be our first proper return to explore a bit more of the world close to home. We'd hoped that
we'd picked a good one to start with.
We knew that this would be a very active trip going into it with almost everything being witnessed by driving across the country, walking or hiking. Having performed our
round the world trip, Inca trail hike and a week wild camping in Scotland we knew we were well prepared. Still doing multiple big hikes almost back to back took their toll.
Coming into this trip we knew that certain things such as fuel, food and drinks would be expensive in Norway. However we'd underestimated just how much more expensive things
could be. It was to the point that we couldn't imagine how the locals manage to live here, but I guess that is probably why we met so many of them enjoying the great outdoors
even with young children rather than sat in expensive cinemas drinking coca cola and eating popcorn.
Our first hike would be one of Norway's most popular. It is relatively close to Oslo, not too long and fairly safe with often better weather than the more
northern higher treks. The hike itself is about 4 to 5 hours long for a round trip, depending on how long you spend at the top. It climbs about 500 metres and is 8 kilometres in
length.
The views on the way up are impressive overlooking lakes, winding across marshland, climbing rock staircases as the land becomes more mountainous. Eventually you reach a plateau where
you snake around a cliff face to reach the flat top tower of Pulpit rock with provides an over-arching viewing platform above the Lysefjord. The platform sits at 604 metres.
We were lucky to be staying nearby and were able to make an early start which allowed us to beat most of the crowds to the summit. The sun even made an appearance while we were at the
viewing platform. On the way back down we met a lot more people coming up and I simply can't imagine how different it'd have been with everyone crowded onto the viewing platform.
We had saved the most difficult trek we planned to do during our time in Norway for second. Two reasons for this being to allow us to get used to trekking in
Norway such as the weather and altitude. Secondly to allow us to prepare and be well rested for the bigger hike. This was also why our third and fourth hikes were smaller, shorter and
optional if we had injured ourselves or were simply too tired.
We had read in advance that there was no need to bring too much water on this hike as there was plenty of running water around at the lower parts of the trek. While this may have been
true as I unfortunately found out the very gripy rocks down to some of these water sources can become extremely slippery with the slightest amount of splashed water. Cue me falling chest
deep into a ravine full of freezing cold mountain melt water. Thankfully we were low enough, it was currently warm enough and I was in good mountaineering gear. A quick wring out of
my t-shirt and we proceeded up the trek. We had a long was to go, but I was certain the rest of me would dry out soon and there'd be no risk of hypothermia.
This hike is a long hike averaging 8 to 12 hours depending on fitness, time spent at stops and if you get lost at all. The season to climb Trolltunga is very narrow (June to August)
this is due to the altitude being 1100 metres. Even in mid-july when we summitted it there was snow, ice, freezing fog and if one didn't accidentally stray of course you could very
easily run into trouble. We saw several people lose sight of the track on the flat plateaus and were thankful we were there for them to use as a guide to get back onto track. Even
in only 20 or 30 paces you could end up way off the track and with visibility so low you could struggle to find your way back. The trail round trip is 27 kilometres and the total ascent
is 800 metres.
If your able to make such a strenuous hike you will be heavily rewarded. The trail starts fairly dull. Its scenic, but nothing worthy of such a huge hike. However once you climb out of
the first valley you'll emerge onto a mountain plateau and witness snowcapped peaks, snow covered flats and eventually mountain lakes. After the first lake it is lake after lake after lake.
After some more climbing you'll emerge from the clouds well above some of the lakes below and weather permitting you'll have some fantastic views. On our way up we had moody skies but
just enough clearing to get some pictures. On the way back down we had gorgeous sunshine so the weather really can change up here quickly. Eventually through perseverance you reach
the Troll's Tongue, a section of rock precariously sticking out over the fjord below. It is an impressive almost physic defying place. When we got there a handful of other people were
there, but everyone is polite and waits their turn without any pushing or shoving which would be dangerous. It is easy to imagine how someone could slip or be blown off this ledge in the
wrong conditions. Thankfully the rock is quite wide and was dry enough under foot for us.
Even for us this hike was very demanding and when we got back to the car we were glad we had some quieter days ahead. We were extremely happy to have completed it but it had taken its toll.
We had a few days to recover and drive around seeing the areas around Odda. The campsite itself was located right on a lake edge as well.
This was perfect to allow us to relax with a pizza after our long hike to Trolltunga. Driving around we were surprised by how much mountains, lakes, and snow we
found still in July.
A few key things we did around Odda was a visit to the Stegastein Viewpoint. This is a man made structure jutting out from the mountain side overlooking a big
river bend. It's an impressive place for a scenic viewpoint and I'd imagine it'd be as nice in winter as it was for us in summer. Another thing we did was the hike
from Botsvatn to Jonstein. This is a hike up from the lake on a well managed path then 4x4 track giving views back over the lake. We made it so far up to get the
best views back over the lake before calling it quits as our legs were still tired from Trolltunga.
In terms of things to do in the general area Odda had been the best stop we would have on this trip and I do recommend anyone coming to Norway even if not for hiking
comes this far north for the best of the fjords, rivers and mountains.
Our final stop in Norway was the Jotunheimen Nasjonalpark. This was the furthest north we'd be coming on this trip to Norway.
We had planned to explore some of the lakes, rivers, scenery and potentially do a hike not knowing exactly what. Upon arrival we'd decided to visit
the Besseggen ridge area take a hike. We didn't go over the ridge and instead kept to the ridge line and circumnavigated it. We mostly did this as the
ridge was quite exposed and the weather was not perfect. However on a better day and with better conditions I can only imagine how impressive the views
must have been. They were amazing enough from the bottom as we navigated it.
While it's not on the map shown, there is a path that comes around the back side of the ridge. We also mostly had this hike to ourselves. Having said that
simply walking around this is still a mean feat. Taking about 4 to 5 hours with stops. Climbing over the ridge line would take 6 to 8 hours round trip.
This would be our last hike in Norway and so we took our time enjoying the sights and taking fun photos while also enjoying our packed lunches.
Norway had been all and more than we could have expected. Having come here in July we hadn't expected to find any snow, a trade off we'd made to let us get around ok and be able to do the planned hikes. While it had been an expensive place for outdoorsy people like us it had been a perfect place to take a break from the routine of the working world. From here we ditched the car and would be more stationary as we boarded a flight to Stockholm, Sweden.
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